![[Skip Navigation]](/images/pixel.gif){kind=tracking}
|
Coastal Storms Program
Improved Prediction of Coastal WavesNew Wave Model to Enhance Forecasts and WarningsThe Pacific Northwest experiences some of the most severe weather in the country. Notable among these threats are battering waves affecting the nearshore region and coastal river bars. The Columbia River Bar is one of the most dangerous navigation hazards in the U.S. Through the Coastal Storms Program, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s (NOAA) National Weather Service (NWS) has adapted a high-resolution wave model for the Columbia River and the nearby coastal waters of Washington, Oregon, and Northern California. This model provides guidance to NWS forecasters in the preparation of marine forecasts, bar condition reports, and sea-state warnings. How the Project WorksThe current operational wave models used by NWS do a good job providing guidance on the height, period, and direction of waves in the offshore region. Nearshore waves, however, are more dynamic because of unique local conditions (bathymetry, wind forcing, river currents, etc.). The nearshore region is also where the greatest threat exists to people’s lives and property. To address this issue, NOAA worked with scientists from the Naval Research Laboratory and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to further develop and refine the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) high-resolution wave model for use in operational forecasting. Model improvements through the Coastal Storms Program included coupling the wave model with a tidal current model, partitioning the wave field into components like wind wave and swell, and identifying specific hazards like steep and breaking waves. This model meets the critical need for more accurate data on wave heights in dangerous areas, such as river bars. This information is significantly enhancing nearshore wave forecasts, which in turn help to save lives and property. Future plans propose for the model to be implemented at other NWS coastal weather forecast offices. For Additional InformationDouglas Harper |
